Deels worn throughout seasons in the XII-XIV centuryArt & Culture
Dornogobi /MONTSAME/. Three deels that are registered in the list of invaluable cultural heritage of Mongolia are being kept at the Museum, Training and Research Center of Dornogobi aimag.
They were discovered during a joint excavation of the Institute of History and Archeology of the Mongolian Academy of Sciences (MAS) and the aimag’s Museum, Training and Research Center at an ancient burial site located 42 km from Dalanjargal soum, Dornogobi aimag in 2005.
In his presentation, Researcher at MAS, Ph.D. B.Tsogtbaatar gave a detailed explanation regarding the artifacts, stating that it is clear that they trace back to the period from the 12th to 14th centuries.
1. Leather deel
Length: 145 cm
Width: 222 cm
Found covering the burial, the deel has brown fur in some areas, of which side was covering the body. Aside from a slanted collar, it also has slim sleeves and wide armpits. The deel is rather long and big.
The size of the chest flap and collar area cannot be determined as it was found ripped.
The sleeves are only big enough to have a tight fit around the wrist. An ever ugalz (horn) pattern is cut in a flattened hide, with its edges sewn in. As it is greatly damaged, there are no traces of buttons.
2. Deel made with silk brocade
Length: 156 cm
Width: 155 cm
The deel was discovered with its sleeves folded inwards, using it as a pillow for the body. Some parts such as the area from the elbow area of the left sleeve, the chest area, and the lower flap are ripped. It has a slanted collar, narrow sleeves, wide armpits, and a long, wide lower flap.
Its exterior was made with two types of silk brocades with different patterns. Its main body, lower flap, and left sleeve were made with red silk with the pattern of a dragon sewn with a yellow thread, while the right sleeve and the left hip were made with red silk that has an illustration of a winged creature spreading out its wings.
Blue silk was used in making the deel’s lining. A single orange strap can be found on the left side.
3. Inner deel
Length: 132 cm
Width: 158 cm
Made with dark red silk, it has a slanted collar, thin sleeves, and a pleated, loose lower flap. The deel was found worn on the body.
After separately cutting out the upper and lower parts of the deel, the wide lower flap was attached onto the chest part by creating pleats. A light colored strap is sewn in the armpit area. A green fabric with patterns that were sewn with gold-colored threads and another similar fabric with floral patterns were used in making the deel.
Upon comparing the deels to currently available research materials, it is apparent that they are invaluable tangible heritage as all three have the features of deels worn by wives in the Middle Ages.